chapter  18
14 Pages

Up the Golden Horn to Eyüp

EstuaryinTurkish)hasbeenbadlypolluted.Itisan inletoftheBosphorus,stretchingnorthwestforsomeeleven kilometersfromSarayPoint,withanaveragewidthofabout 400meters.Atitsnorthernendtwolittlestreamsflowinto it,AlibeySuyuonthewestandKagtthaneSuyuonthe east;theywereonceknownastheSweetWatersofEurope, butnowtheyaresewers.Forcenturiesthecharming meadowsbetweenthemwerethesiteofroyalgardens, palaces,andpavilionsandwereafavoriteholidayresort forcity-dwellers.Progresshasreplacedthepalaeeswith ramshacklefactoriesandthemeadowshaveallbut disappeared.