ABSTRACT
The relationship between fashion media and the fashion industry is a lot closer than in most other journalistic fields. Fashion was a driver for the spread and popularity of early magazines, and its rhythms, needs and – crucially – advertising still sustain the print media today. In fact, journalist, commentator and campaigner Caryn Franklin goes so far
as to say: ‘Fashion is an industry that has very cleverly created its own media to support it’ (2013). Other journalists argue that the relationship is more subtle than this, and
applies to some media more than others. This chapter will look at the various types of fashion media and the jug-
gling act that editors have to pull off to keep their publishers, readers and advertisers happy. It will discuss the centrality of the brand, and the importance of the target
reader: two things that editors say they wished new recruits were more aware of when they join them from university. It will also look at practical issues like lead times and media kits. The move online will be explored, along with the rise of branded editorial – the
two developments that have most changed fashion journalism in the last ten years. And one of the key issues plaguing fashion journalism – the accusation that
it is largely uncritical and kowtows too much to advertisers – will be addressed from both sides of the fence, from critics and from those who deal day-to-day with advertiser relations. What this chapter will NOT do is give a comprehensive overview of all the
newspapers, magazines and websites covering fashion. There are many textbooks devoted to doing just this, and there is a recommended reading list at the end.
