ABSTRACT

From Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy, to sharp-suited gangsters in Tarantino movies, clothing is central to film. In Undressing Cinema, Stella Bruzzi explores how far from being mere accessories, clothes are key elements in the construction of cinematic identities, and she proposes new and dynamic links between cinema, fashion and costume history, gender, queer theory and psychoanalysis.
Bruzzi uses case studies drawn from contemporary popular cinema to reassess established ideas about costume and fashion in cinema, and to challenge conventional interpretations of how masculinity and femininity are constructed through clothing. Her wide-ranging study encompasses:
* haute couture in film and the rise of the movie fashion designer, from Givenchy to Gaultier
* the eroticism of period costume in films such as The Piano and The Age of Innocence
* clothing the modern femme fatale in Single White Female, Disclosure and The Last Seduction
* generic male chic in Goodfellas, Reservoir Dogs, and Leon
* pride, costume and masculinity in `Blaxploitation' films, Boyz `N The Hood and New Jack City
* drag and gender confusion in cinema, from the unerotic cross-dressing of Mrs Doubtfire to the eroticised ambiguity of Orlando.

part |63 pages

Dressing Up

chapter |32 pages

Cinema and Haute Couture

Sabrina to Pretty Woman, Trop Belle Pour Toil, Prêt-à-Porter

chapter |29 pages

Desire and the Costume Film

Picnic at Hanging Rock, The Age of Innocence, The Piano

part |80 pages

Gender

chapter |28 pages

The Instabilities of the Franco-American Gangster

Scarface to Pulp Fiction, Casino, Leon

chapter |25 pages

The Screen's Fashioning of Blackness

Shaft, New Jack City, Boyz N the Hood, Waiting to Exhale

chapter |25 pages

Clothes, Power and the Modern Femme Fatale

The Last Seduction, Disclosure, Single White Female

part |55 pages

Beyond Gender

chapter |26 pages

The Comedy of Cross-Dressing

Glen or Glenda, Mrs Doubtfire, The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert

chapter |27 pages

The Erotic Strategies of Androgyny

The Ballad of Little Jo, The Crying Game, Orlando