ABSTRACT

I first visited Tsukuba in the summer of 1976; it was hard to find. The people at the main railroad station in Tokyo were not quite sure why a foreigner wanted to visit a small, old village (mura) near the top of a mountain with a modest Buddhist temple and Shinto shrines known, if at all, for a poem about the area written by Emperor Yozei (869–949):

Tsukuba ne no

From Tsukuba’s peak,

Mine yori otsuru

Falling waters have become

Minano-gawa

Mina’s still, full flow:

Koi zo tsumorite

So my love has grown to be;

Fuchi to nari nuru

Like the river’s quiet deeps. 2