As I sit on the Belfast-London shuttle, shortly after signing the contract to write this book, cross-dressing and sex-changing seem far removed. The officers, crew and passengers are clearly either male or female. The pilot looks masculine, vigorous and authoritative. The hostesses are elegant, well groomed and made-up. They seem to be enjoying their femininity. I seem to be set within a firmly dichotomised world. Every page of the inflight reading material confirms it. Every stage of interaction I observe reinforces it and as I continue my journey it is confirmed over and over again.