ABSTRACT

Each July, and then for only four days, Nijmegen, a city of 150,000 located on the

Dutch side of the border with Germany, swells to over one million inhabitants.

During these heady days trains and buses enter Nijmegen’s central station from

every conceivable direction in Europe and elsewhere, disgorging hundreds of

thousands of visitors, young and old, who in turn occupy what appears to the

local Nijmegenaar1 as every last piece of available open space. If you look closely,

these visitors, having traveled from afar, have a special gleam in their eyes, a

purposeful ‘something’ one doesn’t come by very often these days, certainly not

among such a varied and motley cross-section of Europeans. What briefly unites

such a disparate group is participation in a four-day walk-a-thon, or more

properly, a march (colloquially referred to in Dutch as de Vierdaag), on the terrain

of a wide inter-city loop demanding between 30 and 50 kilometers per day,

depending on level of fitness. Not a particularly spectacular event on the face of

it, compared, say, with the Boston or New York marathons, or currently

fashionable expressions of ‘extreme sport’, but one with a particularly deep

resonance for Nijmegen – and indeed Europe’s – recent past: for many, still, the

lived experience of wartime and devastation, that has catalyzed in part Europe’s

will to govern cooperatively.