ABSTRACT

In Chapter 1 we discussed an evolutionary classification of depositional coastal environments based on the dominance of either fluvial, tide or wave processes (Figure 1.6). Chapters 6 and 7 dealt with environments mainly controlled by river and tide processes, and in this chapter we will discuss wave-dominated coastal environments. To most people, the principal landform of wave-dominated coasts is the beach. However, beaches are but one component of wave-dominated coasts. The shoreface, which is the underwater slope that lies seaward of the subaerial beach, is also dominated by wave-processes. Additionally, the coastal dunes behind beaches can also be considered ubiquitous elements of wave-dominated coastal environments. The coastal dune, beach and shoreface are strongly linked by sediment transport pathways and morphodynamic feedbacks. Collectively, they make up coastal barriers and these landforms can be considered the basic depositional elements of wave-dominated coasts (Roy et al., 1994). The following three sections of this chapter will discuss shoreface, beach and coastal dune morphology and processes. The final section will look at the bigger picture and deals with barrier morphology, processes and evolution.