ABSTRACT

While videotaping in West Africa many years ago for a research project on women and war, a colleague who was assisting with translations told me a story. ‘There was this tourist who was taking photos of a Baobab tree,’ she began, explaining how this dramatic tree with its distinctive sculptural form was a standard backdrop in pictures of West Africa. ‘This tourist is taking snapshots of the tree and a young local guy approaches her. ‘Mama [the term of address for older women], you have deeply offended me and my ancestors’, he says. ‘My uncle who died long ago has returned as a lizard living in that tree. Now that you have taken the pictures, he must find another tree to settle his spirit.’ My friend went on with her funny story, widening her eyes in mocking imitation of the horrified tourist. ‘So this clever young guy offers to find a witch doctor to undo this unfortunate disturbance of his uncle’s spirit and the tourist gratefully offers to pay the price. She rushes away with her camera, and the young guy rushes off to tell his friends about the silly tourist.’