ABSTRACT
LATE ANTIQUITY Roman clothing and attitudes toward dress evolved constantly, and the clothing of the early and late empire was distinctive in several ways (Figs 8, 24, 47). The old ideals of restraint and modesty in dress, using understated and subtle status indicators, were replaced by conspicuous STATUS display through costume: whereas early emperors were criticized for wearing excessively expensive clothing, later emperors were praised for such splendour – lavishness of display became regarded as an appropriate expression of power. Jewels, GOLD, EMBROIDERED FIGURATIVE decoration on clothes, PEARLS, PURPLE and SILKS in generous quantities were all de rigueur, and there were increasing attempts to make the imperial family stand out by restricting what others could wear. People of high rank expected to show off their position and wealth through their clothing, with a general trend towards more heavily decorated garments and larger and more conspicuous JEWELLERY. This prompted a backlash among various CHRISTIAN writers, who exhorted Christians to revert to more modest dress in terms very similar to earlier moralists (e.g. Seneca).
