ABSTRACT

T he rusted sign beside the road read: ‘For The 12th Five Year Plan YouNeed To Maintain Good Speed And Rhythm.’ From my place in thefront seat of Ilia’s Lada I watched our driver smile at this quaint tribute to Communism, now used only as target-practice by passing locals. Beyond the car bonnet stretched a glorious sight: a hobbit-green valley, rich with pastures, vines and citrus, leading the eye up to a sudden eruption of mountain-side and snowy peaks — our destination.