ABSTRACT
In this chapter you will learn how to draft a sleeve pattern using a mathematical formula rather than draping it on a dress form. You will also learn how to cut and apply your sleeve to the Elizabethan bodice constructed in Chapter 7. A scaled version of this pattern is included at the end of this chapter.
Draw a center guideline on your pattern paper or brown craft paper roughly 30″ in length.
Mark a point near the top of this guideline and label it point A. This will be the apex of your sleeve.
Measure 10″ from point A and mark a line perpendicular to the center guideline. This is line B.
Measure the length of the underarm measurement (usually 15″–23″ on an average female) down from Line B and mark another line perpendicular to yourcenter guideline, this is Line C.
On Line B, measure 10″ out from the centerline and label point D. This measurement affects the overall fullness of your sleeve. You may reduce or increase the fullness of the sleeve by altering the length of this line. However, 10″ is an appropriate level of fullness for this particular period.
On Line C, measure 3.″–5″ out from the center guideline and label point E. The exact length of this measurement should be half of the desired final circumference of the sleeve hem. The desired final circumference of the sleeve hem can be determined by adding an inch or two of ease to the wrist measurement of your performer.
Draw a dashed line connecting point D to point E. This line is not a final cut or stitch line.
Locate the center of line D–E and mark a 1″ line extending perpendicular to line D–E from this point. This 1″ line should extend towards the center of the sleeve and should be labeled point F.
With a hip curve, draw a gently sloping line from point D to point F.
Extend point E up 3″ perpendicular from line C. This is now line E.
With a hip curve, draw a gently sloping line from point F blending into line E.
Extending point E. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_7_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/> Drawing a 1″ line at point D. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_9_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>
Draw a 1″ line at point D that extends into the center of the sleeve and is perpendicular to line D–F–E.
Extend point A 11/2″ on either side of the centerline. This is the top of your sleeve.
Draw a dashed line connecting point D to line A. This line is not a final cut line.
Establishing G and H. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_11_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>
Divide line A–D into thirds. Label the two dividing points G and H.
Find the center of line segment D–H, label this point J.
Draw a 3/4″ line from point G, extending to the outside of the sleeve.
Draw a 1/2″ line from point J, extending towards the inside of the sleeve.
Connecting D–J–H. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_13_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>
Using a hip curve, draw a line connecting D–J–H. This line should curve into the sleeve.
Using a hip curve, draw a line connecting H–G–A. This line should curve away from the sleeve.
Connecting DD and EE, placing line FF.
Note: For Steps 7–9 we will be drafting the remaining half of the sleeve by essentially repeating the process outlined in Steps 2–6. However, the measurements used to create the upper section of the sleeve will be slightly different, resulting in a slightly different curve.
https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_19_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>Draw a dashed line connecting point DD to point EE. This line is not a final cut or stitch line.
Locate the center of line DD–EE and mark a 1″ line extending perpendicular to this line at this point. This 1″ line should extend toward the center of the sleeve and should be labeled point FF.
Extend point EE up 3″ perpendicular from line C. This is now line EE.
Drawing sloping lines from DD to FF and from FF to EE. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_20_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>
With a hip curve, draw a gently sloping line from point DD to point FF.
With a hip curve, draw a gently sloping line from point FF blending into line EE.
Draw a 1″ line at point DD which extends into the center of the sleeve and is perpendicular to line DD–FF–EE.
Drafting curved lines DD–JJ–HH and HH–GG–A. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_21_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>
Point A should already be extended 1.″ on either side of the centerline.
Draw a dashed line connecting point DD to line A. This line is not a final cut line.
Divide line A–DD into thirds. Label the two dividing points as GG and HH.
Find the center of line segment DD–HH, label this point as JJ.
Draw a 1″ line from point GG, extending to the outside of the sleeve.
Draw a 1″ line from point JJ, extending towards the inside of the sleeve.
Using a hip curve, draw a line connecting DD–JJ–HH. This line should curve into the sleeve.
Using a hip curve, draw a line connecting HH–GG–A. This line should curve away from the sleeve.
Completed sleeve draft. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_22_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>
Congratulations! Your sleeve pattern is now complete. Label your pattern with the cutting information outlined in the previous chapter. For this sleeve we have not included a seam allowance directly on the pattern, the grain line runs parallel to line A–B–C, and your cut number is 2. Also, mark the front and back of your sleeve pattern. The back of your sleeve is the side with a larger shoulder curve.
In the following steps we will be cutting out your sleeves and inserting them into the bodice from Chapter 7.
Sleeve pattern piece cut out. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_23_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>
Lay out your mockup fabric out on a cutting table. Refer to the previous chapter for further instructions. Lay your sleeve pattern, right side up, on your prepared fabric. Align the grain line of the sleeve with the grain line of the sleeve pattern and pin firmly in place. Trace around the outside edge of your pattern—this is your stitch line. For the second sleeve, turn the pattern over and move to another area on the fabric. Align the grain, pin the pattern in place, and trace. At this point, you will need to measure and add a seam allowance to the perimeter of your pattern. Suggested seam allowances for sleeves are:
2″ at sleeve hem
1″ at underarm sleeve and around armscye
After marking all seam allowances, cut out your sleeves. Refer to the previous chapter for additional information.Assembled mockup sleeve. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_24_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>
Create your sleeve mockups by pinning and stitching each sleeve together along the underarm seam, making sure to properly align the marked stitch lines.
Compare your sleeves after they are constructed, to confirm that they are mirror images of each other as opposed to duplicates. Remember that each sleeve has a front and back orientation which must coincide with its proper place on the body.
To establish the placement of the sleeve into the bodice armscye, pin the sleeve in place on the bodice on the dress form. Begin by matching the underarm sleeve of the seam with the bodice side seam. Continue aligning and pinning the lower armscye portion of the sleeve, stopping halfway around the armscye as shown.
Placing the top of the sleeve into the armscye. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_26_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>
Working from the outside, match the apex of the sleeve (point A from your sleeve draft) to the bodice shoulder seam and pin the remainder of the sleeve into the bodice armscye. You will need to add gathers or pleats to the sleeve cap to fit the fullness into the armscye. Note that this is the standard placement of a sleeve in a mockup garment. While fitting the garment, you may find it desirable to place the apex of the sleeve at a point in front of or behind the bodice shoulder seam.
Creating gathering stitches. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_28_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>
Once you are satisfied with the style and placement of the sleeve on the dress form, remove the sleeve and machine baste from point H to point HH, ⅛″ on either side of the solid marked stitch line—these are gathering stitches. By pulling evenly on these stitch lines, you can adjust the fullness and quantity of the gathers necessary to fit the sleeve into the bodice armscye.
Pinning the sleeve into the armscye. https://s3-euw1-ap-pe-df-pch-content-public-p.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/9780240825113/1cbdc1b5-f77a-47ce-8b3d-f811a3670fa2/content/fig8_30_C.jpg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"/>
You are now ready to pin the sleeve into the bodice for stitching. Remove the bodice from the form and turn it inside out. Slip the sleeve, right-side out, into the bodice and align the armscyes. Be sure to confirm that right sides are together and that the front of the sleeve is aligned to the front of the garment. Working from inside the sleeve, pin the sleeve in place at the bodice side seam and the bodice shoulder seam. Adjust the gathers as necessary with your basted gathering stitches to fit the sleeve into the bodice armscye, pinning as you work. Place your pins perpendicular to the stitch lines of your sleeve for easier removal during stitching.
Once you are satisfied with your pinning, stitch the sleeve in place. Confirm the placement of the sleeve on the dress form. Make any alterations necessary to achieve proper fit and transfer those to the paper pattern. Once you are satisfied with your mockup sleeve you may proceed with creating the final sleeve in fashion fabric.
