ABSTRACT

A Tailoring Guide to Pattern Drafting offers pattern drafting instructions for men’s most popular tailored garment styles from 1850 to 1900, used in theatres and film productions today.

The book features a wide range of 19th-century garments, providing information and detailed instructions on the frock coat, morning coat, lounge jacket, smoking jacket, shirt, waistcoats, trousers and long-riding breeches. It includes a brief history of each garment, accompanied by colourful illustrations and easy-to-follow instruction to draft historical 19th-century silhouettes for modern performances. The book features:

  • A brief history of each garment, accompanied by full-colour illustrations.
  • Modern step-by-step instructions with clear diagrams to draft 19th-century menswear.
  • Instructions incorporating both the imperial and metric systems.
  • Recommendations on choosing the appropriate modern-day equivalent fabric.
  • Recommendations on the quantity of the fabric.
  • Recommendations on the button size to make the garment appear more authentic.
  • A table of Dress Code Ethics for Gentlemen from 1850 to 1900.
  • Descriptions and visual information on how to take accurate measurements.
  • Photographs of costumes and images of the 19th-century Carte de Visite for visual support.

A Tailoring Guide to Pattern Drafting is intended for anyone with a desire to learn or refine their costume-cutting skills for theatre and film production. The book is aimed at undergraduate and graduate students, tutors and both amateur and professional makers interested in the subject.

To access the author’s YouTube channel, featuring 130 step-by-step lessons to make a 19th-century Morning Coat using classical tailoring techniques, visit www.routledge.com/9780367265335.

chapter |6 pages

Introduction

chapter Chapter One|4 pages

How to Use the Book

chapter Chapter Two|4 pages

Dress Code Ethics for Gentlemen, 1850–1900

chapter Chapter Three|2 pages

Tools and Equipment for Drafting Patterns

chapter Chapter Four|10 pages

Taking Measurements and the Importance of Measurements

chapter Chapter Five|7 pages

Seam Allowances

chapter Chapter Six|12 pages

Frock Coat

chapter Chapter Seven|12 pages

Morning Coat

chapter Chapter Eight|12 pages

Lounge Jacket

chapter Chapter Nine|8 pages

Smoking Jacket

chapter Chapter Ten|11 pages

Shirt

chapter Chapter Eleven|14 pages

Collars and Lapels

chapter Chapter Twelve|9 pages

Sleeves

chapter Chapter Thirteen|16 pages

Waistcoats

chapter Chapter Fourteen|10 pages

Trousers

chapter Chapter Fifteen|12 pages

Long-Riding Breeches

chapter 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159Chapterc SIXTEEN|1 pages

Photo Gallery