ABSTRACT

From its beginnings in the fifteenth century, intensified interest in fashion and the study of fashion over the last thirty years has led to a vast and varied literature on the subject.

This collection of essays surveys and contextualizes the ways in which a wide range of disciplines have used a variety of theoretical approaches to explain, and sometimes to explain away, the astonishing variety, complexity and beauty of fashion. Themes covered include individual, social and gender identity, the erotic, consumption and communication.

By collecting together some of the most influential and important writers on fashion and exposing the ideas and theories behind what they say, this unique collection of extracts and essays brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we think and say about fashion.

chapter |10 pages

Introduction

part One|4 pages

Fashion and fashion theories

chapter 1|10 pages

Explaining it Away

part Two|5 pages

Fashion and history/fashion in history

chapter 3|7 pages

Fashion

Fashion

chapter 4|12 pages

Fashion has Its Laws

Fashion has Its Laws

chapter 6|9 pages

Gilles Lipovetsky

A Century of Fashion

part Three|4 pages

What fashion is and is not

part Four|4 pages

What fashion and clothing do

chapter 10|4 pages

Why do People Wear Clothes?

chapter 11|10 pages

Protection

part Five|5 pages

Fashion as communication

chapter 12|5 pages

Social Life as a Sign System

chapter 14|11 pages

When The Meaning is Not A Message

A critique of the consumption as communication thesis

chapter 15|12 pages

Fashion Statements

Communication and culture

part Six|8 pages

Fashion

chapter 16|6 pages

Express Yourself

The politics of dressing up

chapter 17|11 pages

Objectifying Gender

The stiletto heel

chapter 20|15 pages

Fashion

From class differentiation to collective selection

chapter 21|6 pages

Great Aspirations

Hip hop, and fashion dress for excess and success

chapter 22|3 pages

Oppositional Dress

chapter 23|11 pages

Style

part Seven|4 pages

Fashion, clothes and the body

chapter 24|19 pages

Addressing the Body

chapter 25|23 pages

Anchoring the (Postmodern) Self?

Body modification, fashion and identity

chapter 26|3 pages

Lumbar Thought

chapter 27|15 pages

The Comfort of Identity

part Eight|5 pages

Production and consumption

chapter 30|22 pages

Fashion

Unpacking A cultural production

part Nine|4 pages

Modern fashion

chapter 32|5 pages

Adorned in Dreams: Introduction

chapter 33|10 pages

Modernism and Fashion

A social psychological interpretation

part Ten|4 pages

Post-modern fashion

chapter 39|21 pages

Deconstruction Fashion

The making of unfinished, decomposing and re-assembled clothes

part Eleven|5 pages

Fashion and (the) image

chapter 40|3 pages

Fashion Photography

chapter 41|7 pages

Fashion Photography

The double-page spread: Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin & Deborah Turbeville 1

chapter 42|7 pages

‘Doing Fashion Photographs’

part Twelve|5 pages

Fashion, fetish and the erotic

chapter 44|5 pages

Fetishism

chapter 46|9 pages

Fashion and Fetishism

chapter 47|16 pages

Female Fetishism

chapter 48|1 pages

‘Where the Garment Gapes’