ABSTRACT

The period 1927–1949, subsequent to the ascent of the East Face of Longs by the Joe and Paul Stettner, was a period of consolidation for technical rock climbing. Climbers continued their explorations of major faces in the high mountains, and were also active in the vicinities of Boulder and Colorado Springs. The climb was certainly of excellent quality, but it lacked the technical problems of the Stettners’ route on Longs and had none of the combination of difficulty and bad rock which characterized Lizard Head. In 1936, Joe Stettner paid a solo visit to the East Face of Longs Peak. Stettner examined the photograph in later years and felt that the line was correct. Modern climbers who have explored this region of the East Face have returned impressed with its steepness and difficulty. In 1947 Joe Stettner, rather than remaining in contented obscurity in Chicago, paid another vacation visit to Colorado.