ABSTRACT
A main feature of the above coupled-mode model is the consistent calculation of the corresponding deterministic wave field, for each frequency and direction of multichromatic wave system incident to the examined region, through which the transfer functions between any two (possibly different) physical quantities of interest, at any two points in the variable bathymetry domain are obtained. The treatment of the monochromatic wave problems is obtained by formulating a diffraction problem due to seabed and current over general bottom topography. The main features of CMS are: (a) the exact calculation of the wave field (velocity and pressure
1 INTRODUCTION
The analysis and design of coastal structures requires detailed information about inshore wave conditions. In many applications this becomes possible only by transformation of offshore sea states, since information from global forecasting models, satellite measurements or buoy measurements is practically available offshore and usually at a distance of many kilometers far from the coast. One approach to treat this problem is to apply numerical models treating wave-structure interaction to transform offshore wave directional spectra to inshore spectra, exploiting the available geographical information (bathymetry, coastline); see e.g, Athanassoulis et al (2002).
