ABSTRACT
I. Introduction ........................................................................................................... 208 A. Trends for Cosmetic Cleansing Formulations .......................................... 208
1. Evolution of Cleaning................................................................ 208 2. Future Cleansing Concepts ........................................................ 210 3. Psychological Trends ................................................................. 211
B. Testing Strategy To Evaluate the Dermatological Properties of Surfactants ................................................................................................. 214
II. Formulation Techniques ........................................................................................ 216 A. Emulsions .................................................................................................. 216
1. Physicochemical Stability.......................................................... 218 2. Liquid Crystals and Gel Phases................................................. 220 3. Nanoemulsions........................................................................... 221 4. Multiple Emulsions.................................................................... 225 5. Gel Emulsions (High Internal Phase Emulsions)...................... 227
B. Microemulsions and PIER ........................................................................ 227 C. Surfactant Concentrates............................................................................. 230 D. Encapsulated Systems ............................................................................... 231
III. Formulations-Examples and Concepts ............................................................... 233 A. Shampoos Based on Alkyl Polyglycosides............................................... 234 B. Shower Gels .............................................................................................. 235 C. Peeling Preparations.................................................................................. 236 D. Microemulsions as Bath Oils.................................................................... 236 E. Facial Cleansers......................................................................................... 236 F. Hair Conditioners ...................................................................................... 236 G. Styling and Permanent Wave Products ..................................................... 237 H. Creams and Lotions for Sensitive Skin .................................................... 238
208 Ansmann et al.
