chapter  16
30 Pages

New Sunscreen Actives

Introduction 292

Trends in the Sunscreen Market 292

Objectives-Requirements 293

Efficacy 293

Safety 293

Registration 294

Patent Freedom 294

New Trends in the Development of UV Absorbers for Sunscreens 295

New Developments with Respect to Conventional UV Absorbers 296

New Product Forms 296

Case Study 1: Dispersions of Particulate Organic UV Absorbers 297

Photostability of MBBT 297

Synthesis of New Molecules 300

Case Study 2: BEMT-A New Filter Designed for

Application in Sunscreens 300

Overview of New Sunscreen Actives 302

The Most Important Properties of UV Absorbers for Sunscreens 302

UV-Spectroscopic Performance 302

Solubility 302

Photostability 303

Discussion of the New UV Filters for Sunscreens 303

UV-B Filters 303

UV-A Filters 306

UV Broad-Spectrum Filters 309

Improved UV-A Protection with New UV-A and

Broad-Spectrum UV Absorbers 312

Safety of the New UV Absorbers 315

Conclusions 317

References 317

INTRODUCTION

Sunscreens should protect not only against sunburn, which is mainly caused by

UV-B radiation, but also against the damaging effects of the more deeply pene-

trating UV-A radiation (1). This new expectation from consumers and the

medical community has triggered the development of new UV absorbers and

led to the approval of seven new, organic UV absorbers in Europe over the

last decade (2). The US Food and Drug Administration has approved none of

them so far. In this chapter, the new development of UV filters will be presented

and the significant progress over the last few years, mainly in UV-A protection

will be discussed.