ABSTRACT

Introduction 349

Pathology of Photoaged Skin 350

Cosmetic Approaches to Photoaged Skin 350

Growth Factors: What Are They? 351

Growth Factors and Wound Healing 351

Growth Factors in Cosmetic Applications 353

Combination Approaches: Laser Plus Topical Growth Factors 356

Risks Associated with Growth Factors 357

Conclusions 358

Acknowledgment 359

References 359

INTRODUCTION

The pathology of photoaged (sun exposed) skin has been likened to that of a

chronic wound in which remodeling is incomplete because of the extensive

surface area involved and the complication of ongoing photodamage (sun

exposure) (1). Indeed, healing wounds serve well as a physiologic “system” by

which factors affecting skin renewal can be studied. Recently, the cosmetics and

aesthetics industries have sought to achieve a rational approach to skin care by

the use of “cosmeceutical” preparations with known physiologic activities. For

example, vitamin A derivatives (retinoids) and vitamin C are common ingredi-

ents in cosmeceuticals, and are known to have activities beneficial to skin

repair. An emerging trend in cosmeceuticals is the modulation of aging

changes by the use of naturally occurring cell regulatory proteins called

growth factors. Growth factors are normally present in tissues to stimulate cell

growth, modulate immunity, and orchestrate cell development. They have been

studied in wound healing systems (in vitro and in vivo) for many years and defini-

tive evidence of proregenerative effects in wound healing have been demon-

strated. Thus, it is reasonable to consider that they would have similar benefits

in skin care applications. This chapter provides the rationale for the use of

growth factors for the modulation of aged and photodamaged skin and includes

some recent clinical trials evidence to support this assumption.