ABSTRACT
Veblen argued that in the analysis the value of manners lies in the fact that they are a voucher of a life of leisure. He identified the nobility's preference for expensive materials as conspicuous consumption and its pursuit of fashion as wasteful, calling it conspicuous waste; he regarded the impractical style of the nobility's dress as indicative of conspicuous leisure. The styles and elements of dress that Veblen described as distinguishing the leisure class also identified the ruling class. The wealth, physical force, and political and religious authority of the ruler were the intended messages. As Veblen suggested, court attire indicated a system of domination and was intended to elicit a behavioral response and not merely feelings of esteem. In The Civilizing Process, Norbert Elias argued that political rhetoric underlies the expectation for "civility" and "refinement," terms that describe the conduct and attire required of the leisure class.
