ABSTRACT
I saw my little niece Stella Nona’s attempts to start walking.1 She was lying on her stomach, arms and hands level with her armpits, a sudden jump up to a squat position, the slight raising of the legs, the arms balancing horizontal to the body. And then, all of a sudden, I came to think about my surf class on the west coast two years earlier. Stella Nona’s movements seemed to have something to do with the movements I had so much trouble mastering in surfing: lying on the board with the hands level with the armpits, the fast jump up into a squat position with the feet close to
the hands, the slight raising of the legs, the arms balancing horizontally to the body (Figure 0.0).
