ABSTRACT

Deeply intertwined with popular images of bright sun, yellow sand, blue water, rolling breakers and healthy tanned bodies, the appellation ‘extreme’ would appear a misnomer when applied to surfing. This chapter claims otherwise. It argues that extreme is a valid adjective in light of the irreverent and ‘fratriarchial’ nature of surfing culture and associated lifestyles, and given the fact that surfing culture bestows the greatest prestige and honours on big-wave riders, those who risk life and limb in violent masses of water that break with ferocious intent.