ABSTRACT

In the eighteenth century, men’s costume continued to soften and exhibit a greater sense of drape and movement. Satins and velvets remained popular. Brocades became lighter in weight and color with smaller, more delicate floral patterns woven in. Even the woolens developed a softer feel. As if in opposition to the natural tendencies of these finely woven fabrics, there was a desire for fullness and a somewhat horizontal line in the skirts of the men’s coats. The man’s silhouette could be described as “fit and flared.” In order to avoid the excesses of padding and wiring seen earlier in the century, new tailoring techniques were devised. Stiff horsehair interlinings and judicious pleating were used in their skirts.