ABSTRACT

Visual Typologies from the Early Modern to the Contemporary investigates the pictorial representation of types from the sixteenth to the twenty- first century. Originating in longstanding visual traditions, including street crier prints and costume albums, these images share certain conventions as they seek to convey knowledge about different peoples. The genre of the type became widespread in the early modern period, developing into a global language of identity. The chapters explore diverse pictorial representations of types, customs, and dress in numerous media, including paintings, prints, postcards, photographs, and garments. Together, they reveal that the activation of typological strategies, including seriality, repetition, appropriation, and subversion has produced a universal and dynamic pictorial language. Typological images highlight the tensions between the local and the international, the specific and the communal, and similarity and difference inherent in the construction of identity. The first full- length study to treat these images as a broader genre, Visual Typologies gives voice to a marginalized form of representation. Together, the chapters debunk the classification of such images as unmediated and authentic representations, offering fresh methodological frameworks to consider their meanings locally and globally, and establishing common ground about the operations of objects that sought to shape, embody, or challenge individual and collective identities.

chapter |12 pages

Introduction

Visual Typologies from the Early Modern to the Contemporary: Local Contexts and Global Practices

part I|61 pages

Repeating, Serializing, and Borrowing the Type

chapter 2|14 pages

Bodies of Work in the ancien régime

The Costumes Grotesques by Nicolas I de Larmessin

chapter 3|15 pages

The Color of the Orient

On Ottoman Costume Albums, European Print Culture, and Cross-Cultural Exchange

chapter 4|14 pages

On and Off the Tram

Contemporary Types and Customs in Madrid’s Illustrated and Satirical Press (1874–1898)

part II|44 pages

Staging Place

chapter 6|14 pages

Costuming the Empire

A Study on the Production of Tributary Paintings at the Qianlong Court in Eighteenth-Century China

chapter 7|15 pages

Enrique Díaz’s Parade of Progress

Toward a Streamlined Mexican Future

part III|64 pages

Performing the Documentary

chapter 8|14 pages

“True Types of the London Poor”

Street Life in London’s Transitional Typology

chapter 11|17 pages

It is Written in Their Faces

Seri Women and Facial Painting in Photography

part IV|62 pages

The Materials of Typology

chapter 12|15 pages

Fashioning a Nation

Military Dress in Peruvian Independence, 1821–1822 1

chapter 13|14 pages

From Global Traveler to Costumbrista Motif

The Mantón de Manila and the Appropriation of the Exotic

chapter 14|15 pages

Cloth, Clothing, and Colonial Power

France and West Africa at the Expositions

chapter 15|16 pages

Against “Fashion-Time”

Bernhard Willhelm, Regional Folk Dress and the Contemporary

part V|46 pages

Unmasking Stereotypes

chapter 16|15 pages

Ambassadors à la turque

Assimilation and Dissimulation in Eighteenth-Century Images of French–Ottoman Diplomacy

chapter 17|15 pages

The Transmediterranean Routes of Fashion

Between Material Expression and Artistic Representation

chapter 18|14 pages

Julio Galán and the Type

Fashioning a “Border” Aesthetic