ABSTRACT
From chatelaines to whale blubber, ice making machines to stained glass, this six-volume collection will be of interest to the scholar, student or general reader alike - anyone who has an urge to learn more about Victorian things. The set brings together a range of primary sources on Victorian material culture and discusses the most significant developments in material history from across the nineteenth century. The collection will demonstrate the significance of objects in the everyday lives of the Victorians and addresses important questions about how we classify and categorise nineteenth-century things. This collection brings together a range of primary sources on Victorian material and culture. This volume, ‘Fashionable Things’, will focus on Victorian fads and fashions ranging from chatelains to insect jewellery.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
part 1|150 pages
Embodying Fashionability
chapter 2|3 pages
Mrs Merrifield, ‘How Far should the Fashions be Followed?’
The Lady's Newspaper, 7 July 1855, p. 12
chapter 3|6 pages
[Anon], ‘Conduct and Carriage; or, Rules to Guide a Young Lady on Points of Etiquette and Good Breeding in her Intercourse with the World.’
The Ladies' Treasury [June 1857], pp. 119–120
chapter 4|17 pages
[Caroline Stephen], ‘Thoughtfulness in Dress.’
The Cornhill Magazine, September 1868, pp. 281–298
chapter 5|6 pages
[Anon], ‘A Lady's Question: What shall we Wear?’
London Society, May 1869, pp. 410–414
chapter 6|12 pages
E. P. [Emily Pfeiffer], ‘The Tyranny of Fashion.’
The Cornhill Magazine, July 1878, pp. 83–94
chapter 7|4 pages
Mrs H. R. Haweis, ‘Importance of Dress.’
The Art of Beauty (New York: Harper & Brothers, Publishers, 1878), pp. 11–18
chapter 8|2 pages
[Anon], Statement and ‘Editorial Note’, The Rational Dress Society's Gazette
The Rational Dress Society's Gazette, January 1889, p. 1
chapter 9|7 pages
Madame Roxey a. [Ann] Caplin, ‘On Gestation.’
Health and Beauty; or Woman and her Clothing. Considered in Relation to the Physiological Laws of the Human Body. (London: Kent and Co. Paternoster Row, 1864 [3rd edition; first published 1854]), pp. 99–115
chapter 10|1 pages
Image: Advertisement, ‘The London Corset Company’
Hearth and Home, 27 December 1900, p. 317
chapter 11|1 pages
Image: Photograph of Crinolette, Great Britain, CA. 1870 (Made)
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
chapter 12|3 pages
Uncle Grumbler, ‘“The Grecian Bend.”’
Sharpe's London Magazine, January 1869, pp. 110–111
chapter 13|17 pages
S. L. B., ‘The Lady with the Little Feet.’
London Society, June 1869, pp. 494–506
chapter 17|1 pages
Charles Dickens, Barnaby Rudge; A Tale of the Riots Of 'Eighty.
(London: Chapman and Hall, 1841), pp. 41–42
chapter 18|1 pages
Image: G. W. Hunt, ‘Dolly Varden’ (Music Title Page)
(Boston: Oliver Ditson & Co., 1872)
chapter 19|1 pages
The Silkworm, ‘Spinnings in Town.’
The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, 1 June 1871, p. 362
chapter 21|1 pages
[Anon], ‘Observations on London and Parisian Fashions.’
The Ladies' Monthly Magazine, the World of Fashion, July 1872, p. 1
chapter 22|2 pages
[Anon], ‘Materials for the Toilette. VIII.’
The Saturday Magazine, 25 January 1840, pp. 27–28
chapter 23|1 pages
Advertisement for Pears's Rouge & Pears's Pearl Powder
The Ladies' Monthly Magazine, The World of Fashion. A Journal of the Courts of London and Paris, 1 February 1856
chapter 25|3 pages
Charles Reade, ‘A Simpleton. A Story of the Day.’
London Society, December 1872, pp. 495–497
chapter 26|4 pages
Medicus, ‘The Toilet-Table, and what should Lie Thereon’
The Girl's Own Paper, 9 April 1881, pp. 443–444
chapter 30|1 pages
M. E. Braddon, Lady Audley's Secret.
(Leipzig: Bernhard Tauchniz, 1862), Vol. I, pp. 82–83
chapter 31|1 pages
[Anon], ‘Insane Female Fashions. Bunches of False Hair Behind.’
The Dundee Courier and Argus, 13 November 1865 (attributed to the Athenæum)
chapter 33|1 pages
[Anon], ‘L'eau des Fees.’
The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, [January 1873], p. 50
chapter 34|1 pages
Image: Advertisement for Latreille's Hyperion Hair Restorer in Montagu Browne
Practical Taxidermy: A Manual of Instruction to the Amateur in Collecting, Preserving, and Setting Up Natural History Specimens of All Kinds. To Which is Added a Chapter Upon the Pictorial Arrangement of Museums., 2nd edition. (London: L. Uppcot Gill, 1884)
chapter 35|1 pages
Thomas Hardy, Jude the Obscure
(New York and London: Harper and Brothers Publishers, 1896), pp. 63–64
chapter 36|1 pages
Image: Advertisement for Unwin & Albert, Ladies' Ornamental Hair Workers and Expert Wig Makers
Hearth and Home, 29 November 1900, p. 130
part 2|111 pages
Dressing Up
chapter 38|1 pages
Image: Elizabeth Henderson, Fashion Plate, ‘Public Promenade and Bridal Dresses’
The Ladies' Cabinet of Fashion, Music and Romance, May 1847, © National Portrait Gallery, London
chapter 39|3 pages
Aunt Lydia, ‘Letter from Aunt Lydia about Orange-Blossoms.’
The Lady's Newspaper, 10 May 1862, pp. 289–290
chapter 41|1 pages
Image: Photograph by Julia Margaret Cameron, ‘Dora as the Bride’
(Sitter Annie Chinery Cameron), albumen print, 1869
chapter 42|1 pages
Image: Edward Killingworth Johnson, Drawing Depicting a Young Widow Holding her Wedding Dress
Water-colour and gouache on paper, 1877
chapter 43|1 pages
Alice Maud Meadows, ‘May's Wedding Dress’
Tinsleys' Magazine, December 1885, p. 523
chapter 44|2 pages
[Anon], ‘Modern Weddings.’
Le Monde Ēlégant or the World of Fashion, June 1888, p. 81
chapter 47|5 pages
Dora de Blaquière, ‘The Trousseau of To-day. Part II.’
The Girl's Own Paper, 23 December 1899, pp. 177–181
chapter 48|1 pages
Helen, ‘Lines on giving up Wearing a Locket of Hair.’
The World of Fashion, 1 February 1846, p. 33
chapter 49|1 pages
Image: Mourning Brooches Containing the Hair of a Deceased Relative
Credit: Wellcome Collection. Attribution 4.0 International (CC BY 4.0)
chapter 50|3 pages
[Elizabeth Gaskell], Mary Barton: A Tale of Manchester Life.
2 vols., 2nd edition (London: Chapman and Hall, 1848), Vol. I, pp. 66–70.
chapter 51|4 pages
[Anon], ‘The Paris and London Fashions.’
The Lady's Newspaper, 9 November 1850, p. 260
chapter 52|3 pages
[Anon], ‘Conduct and Carriage; or, Rules to Guide a Young Lady on Points of Etiquette and Good Breeding in her Intercourse with the World.’
The Ladies' Treasury [November 1857], p. 270
chapter 54|1 pages
[M. E. Braddon], ‘Oh, my Cousin, Shallow Hearted!’
The Doctor's Wife, 3 vols. (London: John Maxwell and Company, 1864), Vol. II, pp. 16–17
chapter 55|2 pages
Image: William Halford & Charles Young, Manufacturing Jewellers, The Jewellers' Book of Patterns in Hair Work: Containing a Great Variety of Copper-Plate Engravings of Devices and Patterns in Hair; Suitable for Mourning Jewellery, Brooches, Rings, Guards, Alberts, Necklets, Lockets, Bracelets, Miniatures, Studs, Links, Earrings, &C., &C., &C.
(London: 1864), pp. 28, 39
chapter 56|1 pages
Image: Photograph by Julia Margaret Cameron, ‘A Young Woman in Mourning Dress’, 1868/1872
Credit: Wellcome Collection. Public Domain Mark
chapter 57|3 pages
The Silkworm, ‘Spinnings in Town.’
The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, [November 1871], pp. 298–299
chapter 58|4 pages
Sylvia, ‘On the Etiquette of Mourning.’
How To Dress Well On A Shilling a Day: A Ladies' Guide to Home Dressmaking and Millinery (London: Ward, Lock, & Tyler, 1876), pp. 87–93
chapter 61|1 pages
Image: [Anon], ‘Some Summer Dresses for Mourning Wear.’
Hearth and Home, 8 June 1899, p. 169
chapter 63|1 pages
Image: [John Leech], ‘The Chatelaine; A Really Useful Present.’
Punch, [13 January 1849], p. 16
chapter 64|1 pages
Image: Cut-Steel Chatelaine with Attachments, England, CA. 1863–1885
©Victoria & Albert Museum, London
chapter 67|1 pages
[Anon], ‘The Return of the Chatelaine’ in ‘Our Home Circle. Notes and Hints by a Lady.’
The Newcastle Weekly Courant, 27 January 1900, p. 5
chapter 68|2 pages
[Anon], ‘A Word or Two about Cameos.’
Cassell's Household Guide: Being A Complete Encyclopædia of Domestic and Social Economy, and Forming A Guide to Every Department of Practical Life (London: Cassell, Petter, and Galpin, [1869]), Vol. I, p. 123
chapter 69|1 pages
[Anon], ‘Coral Jewellery and Peasant Ornaments.’
The Morning Post, 27 May 1872, p. 2
chapter 70|1 pages
George Eliot, Middlemarch: A Study of Provincial Life
(Edinburgh and London: William Blackwood and Sons, 1871), Vol. I, pp. 397–398
chapter 71|1 pages
Image: Advertisement, ‘The “Beatrice” Silver and Gold Jewellery.’
Le Follet, 1 October 1881, n.pag.
chapter 72|1 pages
[Anon], ‘Jewels, and how to Wear them.’
The Belfast News-Letter, 27 December 1894, p. 7
chapter 73|1 pages
Image: [Anon], ‘The Latest Ideas in Jewellery Seen at Swan and Edgar's, Piccadilly and Regent Street.’
Hearth & Home, 4 November 1897, p. 1029
part 3|53 pages
Animal and Insect Accessories; Home Decoration
chapter 74|2 pages
[Anon], ‘The Best French Kid Gloves.’
The Ladies' Cabinet, January 1857, pp. 32–33
chapter 76|2 pages
Mrs. Henry [Ellen] Wood, East Lynne
3 vols., 2nd edition (London: Richard Bentley, 1862), Vol. I, pp. 91–94
chapter 78|2 pages
[Anon], ‘The Fashions.’
The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, June 1868, pp. 312–314
chapter 79|6 pages
P. L. Simmonds, ‘Art-Inroads on Natural History.’
The Art-Journal, November 1872, pp. 271–273
chapter 80|1 pages
[Anon], ‘Beetle-Wings.’ (‘Enquiries.’; Enquiry from ‘Elsie’) [A] and [Anon], ‘Beetle-Wings (Elsie).’ (‘Answers to Enquiries.’; Response to ‘Elsie’) [B]
The Treasury of Literature and The Ladies' Treasury, 1 September 1874, p. 168 [a], and 1 October 1874, p. 224 [b]
chapter 81|3 pages
[Anon], ‘The Strange Story of a Sealskin. A Tale of Metempsychosis.’
Judy, Or The London Serio-Comic Journal, 24 November 1875, p. 52
chapter 83|2 pages
Montagu Browne, Practical Taxidermy: A Manual of Instruction to the Amateur in Collecting, Preserving, and Setting Up Natural History Specimens of all Kinds. To which is Added a Chapter upon the Pictorial Arrangement of Museums.
(London: L. Uppcot Gill, 1884), p. 261 and advertisement
chapter 87|9 pages
C. W. Gedney, ‘Victims of Vanity.’
The English Illustrated Magazine, August 1899, pp. 417–426
part 4|63 pages
Handicraft
chapter 88|2 pages
[Anon], Potichomania; or, the Art of Imitating Porcelain
(London: Hutton & Co., [1850])
chapter 89|4 pages
Mrs. [Rebekah] Skill, ‘Introduction.’, The Art of Modelling Wax Flowers, Fully and Clearly Explained, Accompanied with Accurate Patterns for Various Flowers, Decorations for Tinting, &C., by which the Attainment of this Elegant Art becomes Simple and Easy
(London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1852), pp. 9–19
chapter 90|8 pages
[Anon], ‘Curiosities of Industry among the Ladies.’
Chambers's Journal, 7 April 1855, pp. 209–212
chapter 91|16 pages
[Anon], ‘Weaving or Plaiting Hair Ornaments’ and ‘Ornamental Bead and Bugle Work.’
Elegant Arts for Ladies (London: Ward and Lock, [1856]), pp. 3–10, 61–63
chapter 92|2 pages
[Anon], ‘Lady's Card-Case in Gold Thread with Steel Beads on Kid.’
The Lady's Newspaper, 27 September 1862, p. 201
chapter 94|3 pages
[Anon], ‘Household Decorative Art. II – Diaphanie.’
Cassell's Household Guide: Being A Complete Encyclopædia of Domestic and Social Economy, and Forming A Guide to Every Department of Practical Life (London: Cassell, Petter, and Galpin, [1869]), Vol. I, pp. 92–93
chapter 95|3 pages
[Anon], ‘The Fair Hand. A Story for Girls.’
Our Young Folks Weekly Budget, 5 July 1873, p. 277
chapter 97|4 pages
[Anon], ‘Uses for Shells and Sea-Weeds.’
The Girl's Own Paper, 13 November 1880, pp. 99–100
chapter 98|6 pages
Dora Hope, ‘How to Preserve Leaves and Flowers.’
Silver Sails: Being the Holiday No. of The Girl's Own Paper, [1882], pp. 33–35
chapter 100|2 pages
John Strange Winter [Pseud. Henrietta Eliza Vaughan Stannard], Mignon's Secret
Seaside Library Pocket Edition (New York: George Munro, 1886), Chapter III, pp. 21–24
