ABSTRACT

Men’s Tailoring: Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950 introduces the reader to English tailoring and covers the drafting of patterns, cutting out in cloth, and the complete traditional construction techniques in sequence for the tailoring of a waistcoat, trousers and jacket. The book contains:

  • step-by-step instructions, complete with illustrations, for students and costumiers who are new to the making of male tailored garments from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries;

  • drafting blocks and construction techniques for the main three styles of nineteenth century male garments: frock coat, morning coat and dress coat;

  • patterns, photographs and detailed measurements taken from a variety of male coats, jackets, waistcoats and trousers from c1830 - c1950 from museums and collections.

From choosing the right cloth to preparing for the fitting process, this how-to guide will help readers create beautiful, historically accurate three-piece suits for events and performances.

chapter Chapter 1|18 pages

Getting started

chapter Chapter 2|34 pages

The block drafts and diagrams

chapter Chapter 3|16 pages

Inlays, allowances and cloth

chapter Chapter 4|16 pages

Cutting out and marking up

chapter Chapter 5|26 pages

Preparing for the fitting and the fitting process

chapter Chapter 6|38 pages

Making up the waistcoat

chapter Chapter 7|20 pages

Making up the trousers

chapter Chapter 8|44 pages

Making up the jacket

chapter Chapter 10|33 pages

Nineteenth-century body coats

chapter Chapter 11|178 pages

Original garments: patterns, photographs and measurements