ARRIVAL AT TEHERAN—CHANGES IN THE BRITISH LEGATION—SIR HENRY DRUMMOND WOLFF—SIR FRANK LASCELLES—STUDIES, SHOOTING AND TROUT-FISHING—PERSIAN FRIENDS AND ENTERTAINMENTS—VISITING A FORBIDDEN SANCTUARY IN DISGUISE—CONDITION OF PERSIAN LADIES

All the many more or less beautiful old gardens in and near Teheran had one feature in common. They all had fine avenues running from north to south, following the streams of the water conducted by subterranean channels from the mountains. But what made the real beauty of these avenues was that their background was formed by the lofty and snow-clad range at the foot of which the capital is situated. The nearest mountain of the Alburz chain, the Touchai, is about 3,800 m. high. It provides the town with its freshness and its clear--though not over-plentiful-water, and with the agreeable aspect of its large snow-fields. Not very far to the east is seen the sugar-loaf cone of Damavand, about 6,000 m. high and always covered with snow.