ABSTRACT

From the viewpoint of the material development of civilization, coasts - as the border between land and sea - have been an important environment and have provided a variety of services and wealth to humans. Intensive use of coastal environments is an inevitable consequence of the development of civilization. However, coasts are one of the most active environments on the earth's surface. Ordinary waves and currents, high waves during extreme weather and long-term sea level changes may inundate coastal areas and modify landscapes. Countermeasures for tsunami disasters to protect coastal communities and facilities, ensure human safety and preserve coastal environments and landscapes have been a major political issue since the 1960s. Tsunami inundation can induce a flow with a maximum speed of 10 m/s and a depth of 10 m. It is widely accepted that tractive force, which depends on the speed and depth of a flow, determines the initial movement of sediments.