ABSTRACT
One or aromatherapy's propositions is that the physical application or inhalation of various "natural" odours can influence mood, behaviour, and "wellness". This may be behind some of the things mentioned in passing by fashion magazines: that smell generally promotes relaxation, reduces stress, improves work performance, modifies sleeping behaviour, and enhances sexuality; that, more particularly, jasmine and lavender calm, green apple and vanilla relax, lemon increases productivity, and peppermint slightly stimulates; that hibiscus has skin-healing properties, and rose antibacterial and hydrating properties. Even though the fragrance market appears to be fashion magazines' only concern, they tell us nothing about the material properties or social lives of olfactory materials: about those who grow, distribute, transform, and prepare jasmine, roses, sandalwood, vanilla, or ylang ylang used in perfumes. The association between fashion and fragrance started way back when the French glove industry used perfume to offset the smell of toxins, urine, and other putrid substances used to tan and soften hides.
