chapter  5
18 Pages


But who are these standards for? One task they have is to classify and therefore to differentiate. their effect is one of mutual exclusivity. in hierarchical classifications of food standards, the process of division is itself sufficient to produce ideas about quality through status notions of desirability. French wine is a good example of this, with legally enforced designations, from Vin de table, Vin de Pays, and Vin délimité de qualité supérieure, to appellation d’Origine Contrôlée at the top end of the market. the aOC is then further divided into a regional classification based on terroir, and, within this, Bordeaux wine has its own hierarchy. the napoleon iii classification of 1855 lists chateaux in the Médoc from first growths at the top, such as Chateaux Lafite rothschild, Latour, Margaux, and Mouton rothschild, down to fifth growths. the st Émilion classification runs from Premiers grands crus classés a and B, to Grands crus classés.