ABSTRACT
Grading systems that assess the difficulty of the routes have been developed for all climbing disciplines. Typically, while graded initially by the person making the first ascent, those making repeat ascents and subsequent editions of climbing guidebooks serve to bring some further objectivity to this somewhat subjective process. A number of different grading systems have been established, not only for each climbing discipline, but also for different countries. In some countries, such as Turkey, the grading system used varies between crags even within the same discipline. This chapter presents an overview of the history of a number of the key grading systems used in rock climbing, highlights issues associated with making comparisons between grading systems, particularly in a research context, and discusses the appropriateness of using self-report climbing grades as a measure of performance ability when reporting climbing research. The chapter closes by recommending the 3:3:3 rule as a more robust method for reporting climbing ability and examining the potential, through the use of technology, to develop a more objective method through which to categorise the difficulty of a climbing route.
