THERE IS ALWAYS a happy, carefree atmosphere Chez Monteil. He himself is an astonishing character . You need to meet him only once-and for him to like you-to be greeted as a longlost brother and be offered a glass of his Solutre, an exceptional dry white wine from the Pouilly-Fuisse section. Full of fun and spirit, Monsieur Monteil will enjoy telling you risque stories and playing all sorts of antics. It is not unusual to see, downstairs in his little bistro, a curate or an industrialist or someone like Jean Gabin-an old friend of le patron-sitting together at marble-topped tables next to blustering meat vendors and carriers (still wearing their bloodstained overalls) indulging in Monteil's specialities.