THIS IS A ~mpathique little bistro. It is tiny: there are only four small tables in the front room and five in the back room. Until a few months ago this used to be a cafe where ice-creams were made and sold. The present owner, who has thereby earned the nickname of Gla-Gla, does all the cooking with the sole help of one other person in the kitchen. Gla-Gla also does the serving.