ABSTRACT
Each night in Medan, men meet in the park behind the popular food and entertainment district, Lapangan Merdeka. They chat, they fl irt. They may make a business contact or just pass the time in the comfort of other gay men. They may go back to one of their boarding houses for sex. In Surabaya, late at night along the river downtown, there is a place called Pattaya. It is well known in Surabaya for hanging out and meeting other gay men. Men sit atop their scooters, helmets perched on their heads, carefully observing the conventions and protocols that have developed over the years. Some fi nd safety in the shadows or slip on a bandana because they do not feel at ease in such a clearly defi ned gay space. Some might have organised to catch up with long-time friends, others will meet new ones. It is a space of desire and also a social space for men to meet, to catch up on gossip, to fi nd a new boyfriend or simply to be surrounded by men. For some men, it is a place to feel comfortable – to sense, see and experience what some men call their community. In Bali, on Kuta Beach, a couple hold hands and kiss. Young men from all over Indonesia gather to chat with each other, to check out bule (white Westerners), maybe exchange sex for money, maybe plan their night out at the bars along Jalan Dhyana Pura or simply relax and enjoy the seaside.
