ABSTRACT
In Kampala we needed entrÉe to three areas before we could properly get on with our work. The first was obviously that of the protectorate government, radiating outwards from the administrative capital of Entebbe twenty miles to the southwest—a real bureaucrats’ paradise, built in a semicircle around an immaculately mown golf course that dropped down to the blue waters of Lake Victoria with a view of Kome Island in the distance. The government offices stood at one end of the semicircle on a little peninsula running out into the lake, and my dominant memory of our first visit is of how small and intimate it all seemed. I had a letter of introduction to the administrative secretary, Barry Cartland, who was the third most senior officer of the government. He sat in one of about six rooms, all opening onto a grassy quadrangle that, together with the offices of the attendant Goanese clerks, constituted the secretariat. The office of the governor was in a two-storeyed building just next door; the lower storey housed the archives. Perhaps a half-dozen other similarly modest establishments accommodated the directorates of the main government services—public works, agriculture, medical services, lands and survey, and some others. Education was, with rare exceptions, still a missionary preserve, though subsidised and inspected by a government director who had his office in Kampala.
