ABSTRACT

The conk originated in the 1920s as a result of the efforts of black males to straighten their hair to resemble Caucasian styles. During the Swing Era, the patent leather look popularized by Cab Calloway held sway; however, by the time of the ascendancy of rock 'n' roll, black musicians had begun wearing their conks high. Penny Stallings described them as "pompadours with marcelled sides and a towering cascade of waves and curls". The wet, lank hair was then combed and greased into the conk. Though it could withstand the wildest Lindy-hopping, humid weather played havoc with the conk's construction, turning the hair back to its curly state.