ABSTRACT

Surfactants can interact with skin in a multiplicity of ways. They first act on the surface of the stratum comeum, then penetrate this layer and perhaps beyond it. Within the stratum comeum, potential target sites of action are intercellular lipid, keratin in comeocytes, and desomsomal intercomeocyte connections. If stratum comeum has been permeated, surfactants can affect living-cell metabolism in the epidermis or even elicit a cytotoxic action. Penetration past the living epidermis into the dermis can elicit an inflammatory response. The surfactant may not even have to act directly on the dermis. Communication via production of cytokines that can elicit a response from dermal398components also occurs. This chapter focuses on action of surfactants on stratum comeum and epidermis, reviews studies that used various in vitro approaches to profile their interactions, and explores in depth the role of surfactant solution phenomenon in controlling the action of surfactants on stratum comeum.