ABSTRACT

Livery consisted of clothing of a specific style, colour and cloth, given by one individual to another, and it served several distinct functions. It could create a sense of corporate identity, it could mark out an individual as being in the service of another or it could reflect the wealth of the head of a household by emphasizing the number of their retainers. Corporate livery worn by members of livery companies and civic officials will be discussed in Chapter 16, while the livery issued to household servants will be considered here. Not surprisingly, livery of both types was of interest to the Tudor government and they featured in the Henrician sumptuary legislation. While the size and magnificence of the king’s household was evidence of his status and authority, large noble retinues could either form part of a royal army in a time of need or become the core of a force resisting royal power during a rebellion. Consequently, late medieval and Tudor monarchs were anxious to curb the size of noble households by legislating against retaining, while also utilizing the forces of loyal members of the nobility when necessary. Taking its lead from the acts of apparel, this chapter will consider the role of livery in three ways: the royal household, noble households and soldiers in the king’s service.