ABSTRACT
I. Introduction ........................................................................................................... 208 A. Trends for Cosmetic Cleansing Formulations .......................................... 208
1. Evolution of Cleaning................................................................ 208 2. Future Cleansing Concepts ........................................................ 210 3. Psychological Trends ................................................................. 211
B. Testing Strategy To Evaluate the Dermatological Properties of Surfactants ................................................................................................. 214
II. Formulation Techniques ........................................................................................ 216 A. Emulsions .................................................................................................. 216
1. Physicochemical Stability.......................................................... 218 2. Liquid Crystals and Gel Phases................................................. 220 3. Nanoemulsions........................................................................... 221 4. Multiple Emulsions.................................................................... 225 5. Gel Emulsions (High Internal Phase Emulsions)...................... 227
B. Microemulsions and PIER ........................................................................ 227 C. Surfactant Concentrates............................................................................. 230 D. Encapsulated Systems ............................................................................... 231
III. Formulations-Examples and Concepts ............................................................... 233 A. Shampoos Based on Alkyl Polyglycosides............................................... 234 B. Shower Gels .............................................................................................. 235 C. Peeling Preparations.................................................................................. 236 D. Microemulsions as Bath Oils.................................................................... 236 E. Facial Cleansers......................................................................................... 236 F. Hair Conditioners ...................................................................................... 236 G. Styling and Permanent Wave Products ..................................................... 237 H. Creams and Lotions for Sensitive Skin .................................................... 238
I. Sun Protective Lotions .............................................................................. 240 J. Active Face Creams .................................................................................. 241
IV. Performance Properties ......................................................................................... 241 A. Testing Methods for the Hair.................................................................... 242
1. Wet Combing ............................................................................. 242 2. Dry Combing ............................................................................. 242 3. Tensile Strength ......................................................................... 243 4. Hair Thickness ........................................................................... 244 5. Shadow-Image Analysis of Tresses of Hair .............................. 245 6. Atomic Force Microscopy ......................................................... 245 7. Oscillation Properties of Hair.................................................... 246 8. Hair Gloss .................................................................................. 247
B. Foam .......................................................................................................... 247 C. Cleansing Effects....................................................................................... 248 D. Testing Methods for the Skin.................................................................... 249
1. Skin Surface Properties.............................................................. 249 2. Spreading Behavior of Cosmetics ............................................. 251 3. Mechanical Properties................................................................ 253 4. Sensory Properties/Sensory Assessment ................................... 254 5. Skin Moisture............................................................................. 255 6. Skin Surface Lipids.................................................................... 256 7. Skin Surface pH......................................................................... 256
V. Trademarks ............................................................................................................ 257 References ....................................................................................................................... 257
I. INTRODUCTION
A. Trends for Cosmetic Cleansing Formulations
1. Evolution of Cleaning
a. Basic Cleansing. The process of cleansing is most probably one of the oldest humankind has integrated into its lifestyle. It has been documented that all ancient cultures have used products like soap for this purpose. This development was not only driven by the desire to increase one’s own beauty; hygienic aspects most likely contributed to this use as well. The aspect of ritual cleansing in different religions is another possible factor contributing to the regular use of these remedies [1-3].
