ABSTRACT

In this chapter, various wave theories will first be introduced to describe linear and nonlinear waves under the idealized situations of a flat bottom and nonbreaking free surface. It is followed by the introduction of realistic wave phenomena in nature and their engineering applications. In connection to each wave phenomenon, we will also briefly introduce various techniques of analysis. Considering that the numerical techniques will be further elaborated in later chapters, we shall focus the discussion in this chapter on the nonnumerical methods such as theoretical approaches and empirical approaches.