ABSTRACT

17 Coastal Processes Wave action is the dominant mechanism in both erosion and deposition along coastlines. Waves are powerful due to their pounding action but are also very selective in etching out rock weaknesses and controlling sediment deposition. The largest and most powerful waves are those which have travelled furthest, i.e. have the greatest fetch. Large storm waves are powerful and destructive. Tidal surges cause damage when waves reach new heights; they occur on high spring tides, aided by strong onshore winds and low atmospheric pressure, as in the North Sea, 1953, and at Bangladesh, 1970.