ABSTRACT

The long waves of the open sea travel fast and far. Waves reaching the California coast have been traced to origins in South Pacific storms more than 7000 miles away, and have traversed this distance at a speed of 40 mph or more. Clearly the sea itself has not traveled in this spectacular way; it has simply played the role of the agent by which a certain effect is transmitted. And people see the essential feature of what is called wave motion. A condition of some kind is transmitted from one place to another by means of a medium, but the medium itself is not transported. A local effect can be linked to a distant cause, and there is a time lag between cause and effect that depends on the properties of the medium and finds its expression in the velocity of the wave.