ABSTRACT
On the one hand we have runaway obesity keeping doctors awake at night; on the other, wary consumers who’ve been burned so often they no longer know what they should be eating: we are in a proper stew about our food. But in many countries, this crisis goes hand in hand with a less noticeable phenomenon, still in its early stages. For it is our very way of eating that has profoundly changed, and this change has come about almost unnoticed.
