ABSTRACT

Understanding the impact of water waves is essential for design of marine structures and assessment of coastal development due to natural causes as well as human intervention. The use of physical and mathematical models is common as part of design processes and impact assessments. Although numerical models have replaced physical models for a number of problems, particularly project models covering large areas, there are still a large range of problems that today are more adequately treated in physical models. On the other hand, numerical models also serve to improve wave modelling, particularly with respect to definition of boundary conditions for wave tests.