ABSTRACT

The Places and Spaces of Fashion, 1800-2007 brings together art, design, fashion, and a much neglected concern for its spatial realities. The spaces and places of fashion have often been overlooked in the writing of fashion history and visual culture. More often than not, however, these environments mitigate, control, inform, and enhance how fashion is experienced, performed, consumed, seen, exhibited, purchased, appreciated and of course displayed. Space, as this volume attempts to illustrate, is itself a representational strategy on par with and influencing the visibility and visuality of fashion. Innovative and challenging, the essays in this volume explore various physical and conceptual spaces, moving from physical environments to the two-dimensional with paintings, illustrations, and photographs to chart similarities, differences, and complex nuanced relationships between environments, fashion, identities, and visuality. The volume also navigates various sites (both permanent and temporary) of production, circulation, exhibition, consumption, and promotion of fashion that define meaning and knowledge about a culture or individual by providing for a bond between embodied consumers/spectators and fashion objects. The Places and Spaces of Fashion, 1800-2007 is a compelling project with a thematic, theoretical, and historiographic approach that is at once both focused yet far-reaching and original in its implications. The volume engages with questions attending to the ‘modern condition’ by seamlessly weaving interdisciplinary discussions of the visual with material culture to explore the spatial dimension(s) of fashion. Some of the essays explore new and exciting spaces while others offer compelling revisionary analyses of relatively known sources

chapter |15 pages

Introduction

Inserting Fashion Into Space

part |70 pages

Part I Picturing Fashion/ Fashionable Pictures

chapter |15 pages

1 Tracking Fashions

Risking It All at the Hippodrome de Longchamp

chapter |18 pages

2 Framing the Victorians

Photography, Fashion, and Identity

chapter |17 pages

3 On The Golden Stairs

The Spectacle of the Victorian Woman in White

chapter |18 pages

4 Maurice de Rothschild's “Remembrances of Things Past”

Costume Obsession and Decadence, the Collection of a Belle Époque Dandy

part |79 pages

Part II Cultures of Display

chapter |19 pages

5 Fashion's Chameleons

Camouflage, “Conspicuousness,” and Gendered Display During World War I

chapter |13 pages

6 Making the Princeton Man

Collegiate Clothing and Campus Culture, 1900–20

chapter |18 pages

7 Elegance and Spectacle in Berlin

The Gerson Fashion Store and the Rise of the Modern Fashion Show

chapter |15 pages

8 The City Boutique

Milan and the Spaces of Fashion

chapter |12 pages

9 Libertine Acts

Fashion and Furniture

part |97 pages

Part III Window Dressing and Boutique Culture

chapter |17 pages

10 Dressing Rooms

Women, Fashion, and the Department Store

chapter |14 pages

11 The Logic of the Mannequin

Shop Windows and the Realist Novel

chapter |14 pages

12 Allure of the Silent Beauties

Mannequins and Display in America, 1935–70

chapter |18 pages

13 “A House That Is Made of Hats”

The Lilly Daché Building, 1937–68

chapter |15 pages

14 From “Paradise” to Cyberspace

The Revival of the Bourgeois Marketplace

chapter |17 pages

15 Armani/Architecture

The Timelessness and Textures of Space