ABSTRACT

To borrow Pierre Bourdieu's notion of “symbolic magic,” a fashion designer's label possesses the auratic potency to conjure the mystique of distinction, authenticity, and exclusivity which in turn engenders a fervent dedication (verging on the religious) on the part of faithful costumers. The aura surrounding the name of the designer transforms objects of no real value to objects of luxury, preciousness, and desire. However, the label itself is not enough; it requires to be housed in a space equally endowed with the potential to elicit reverence and pleasure, a coveted destination. Boutiques offer up affective spatial attenuation of the auratic nature of the designer's label through the preferred pathways of engagement with the space and merchandise. In his discussion of retail design Otto Riewoldt contends that “[w]ith the same care and professionalism as in the theatre, the sequence of events [of shopping] must be worked out in detail, including everything from props to stage directions, in order to transform the sale of merchandise into an experience-intensive act—one in which the potential customers are actors rather than passive spectators” (Riewoldt 9). To best achieve this, a designer must create spaces which communicate his brand, as distinct from all other designer and public spaces. As a designer attempts to make his mark, therefore, so too must he employ an architect whose own unmistakable material signature will assist in the proposition and perpetuation of an authentic designer material and visual identity. The boutique itself must be equally as visually effective and materially auratic as the discreet label sewn into an Armani garment. Through space, the brand must not only articulate a “distinctive message” but also an “emotional identity” (Reitwoldt 10). Robert Triefus, executive vice-president of worldwide communications for Giorgio Armani in Milan, makes a similar claim when he states that “[s]tores are the face of a brand…. It is the entire image as we want it to be seen. Architecture is a very important part of brand communication. When you arrive [at a store] it should conform to your expectations of the brand” (Triefus in Turngate 77).