ABSTRACT

This chapter examines the tensions and contradictions that arise in claiming a culinary practice as the cultural property of a specific indigenous community. While at the same marketing it under the umbrella of Mexico's UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage designation to a global clientele, Using the case study of Caldo de Piedra. It demonstrates that although regional, national, and even 'world' heritage claims are political and operate from the top-down, heritage claims around food are ultimately understood, valued, and really 'worked out' by social actors in their everyday practices and interactions on the ground. Oaxaca is historically not only one of Mexico's economically poorest states; it is also one of the most ethnically diverse, with at least 15 different indigenous languages spoken. The communal nature of caldo de piedra's preparation and consumption has apparently fostered a sense of ownership over the dish within San Felipe Usila itself.