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Chapter the Sixth Of the Social Intercourse and

In Transylvania today there is no social intercourse, if there be neither snuff-box offered nor pipe tobacco; these had not been heard of in the olden days, and the snuff-box was not requested; indeed, if you had, as is now the custom, spoken of it and asked for the tubak pix/48 anyone that knew Latin would have taken it that you wanted snuff-tar or tarry snuff. In those days none took snuff, nor smoked tobacco when I was a boy, but coachmen, ostlers, darabontok, and even they seldom, and hajduk did, the prince's Germans, the dog-catcher and that sort. Then, if you had asked for a pipe of tobacco in the modem way by saying feif tubak, another would have thought that you had something the matter with your trumpets. Before the year 1687 so decent a country was Transylvania that you could cross it without a coin, and nonetheless you and your horse likewise could have eaten well ; yet inns were unknown. We looked with amazement in Kozep utca in Kolozsvar on a sign saying 'inn' , with on it a picture of a fat cook with a knife before the hearth and cooking-pots . In Miriszl6 too there was a shabby house of which I heard tell that it was an inn, but I did not see any guest stay there; perhaps Gyorgy Basta49 had it built when he had defeated Voivode Mihaly there . But if you went on a journey in those days you would send ahead to the village hay and fodder for your horse and food for yourself, and if there were wine in the vi llage you would be given that; in the Saxon country, indeed, if you were not riding your own horse (although the law regulated it, certainly little attention was paid) sufficient post-horses were provided, and if the poor vil lage headman and magistrates did not conduct themselves as the traveller wished they were soundly thrashed and given a lasting bad name. It was certainly not very seemly, though, but when one of the aristocracy arrived in a Saxon village in which famous wine was made, however the poor headman entertained him the lord would enrage himself, and simply so that he should not be angry

the poor headman would offer him two or three barrels of wine, if only the lord would not be angry. If, however, you put up with some poor relation or nobleman of repute, he would receive you gladly and in his delight might well set out all that he had for you. However, what is astonishing is that the aristocracy were no more wealthy than now, for just as today we have no money, so in those days the lords took no delight in accumulating wealth, but only in reputation and sociability ; the peasants , whether Hungarian, Saxon or W allachian, were no poorer than now, indeed, they were certainly much richer.