ABSTRACT
Introduction 140
Color 141
Color Additive Regulation 141
Color Additives: Definitions 141
United States Regulations 142
21 CFR Part 73: Listing of Color Additives Exempt
from Certification 142
21 CFR Part 74: Listing of Color Additives Subject
to Certification 142
21 CFR Part 82: Listing of Certified Provisionally Listed Colors 142
Proposed Permanent Listing of Color Additive Lakes
(FR Vol. 61 #43), March 4, 1996 (4) 143 European Community 143
Annex IV: List of Coloring Agents Allowed in Cosmetic Products 143
Lakes and Salts 143
Purity Criteria 143
Japan 144
Positive List 144
Inorganic/Natural Colorants 144 US Colorants Not Permitted/Restricted in Japan 144
Color Chemistry and Manufacture 144
Organic Pigments 145
Categories of Organic Colorants 146
Stability of Organic Pigments 146
Natural Dyes 5) 147
Inorganic Pigments 147
Titanium Dioxide 148
Zinc Oxide 148
Iron Oxides 149
Ultramarines 149
Manganese Violet 149
Iron Blue 149
Chromium Oxide (Cr2O3) 149
Chromium Hydroxide (Cr2O(OH)4) 150
Hydrated Alumina 150
Barium Sulfate 150
Quality Control of Colorants 150
Establishment of Standards 150
Test Methods 150
Shade Evaluation 150
Heavy Metals 151
Particle Size 151
Bulk Density 151
Pearlescent Pigments and Other Specialty Pigments 151
Pearlescent Pigments 151
Organic Pearls 151
Inorganic Pearls 151
Pigment Pearls 152
Specialty Pigments 152
Treated Pigments 152
Microfine Pigments 154
Light Diffusing Pigments 154
Makeup Technology 154
Powder 155
Face Powders 155
Talc 155
Kaolin 156
Calcium Carbonate 156
Magnesium Carbonate 156
Metallic Soap 156
Starch 156
Mica 156
Polymers 157
Colorants 157
Perfumes 157
Preservatives 157
Loose Face Powders 157
Pressed Face Powders 158
Powder Blushers 158
Pressed Powder Eye Shadows 159
Quality Assurance on Powder Products 159
Foundation 160
Emulsified Foundations 160
Formulation Considerations 160
Makeup Manufacturing Equipment 160
Manufacturing Procedure 161
Anhydrous Foundations 161
Ingredients 161
Basic Formulation 162
Manufacturing Procedure 162
Eye Makeup 163
Mascara 163
Oil-in-Water 163
Solvent-Based 164
Water-in-Oil 164
Anhydrous Mascara 165
Mascara Componentry 165
Cream Eye Shadows 166
Ingredients 166
Basic Formulation 166
Manufacturing Procedure 167
Eyeliners 167
Ingredients 167
Basic Formulations 167
Manufacturing Procedure 167
Pencils 168
Raw Materials 168
Product Types 168
Manufacturing Procedure 168
Lipsticks 168
Classical Lipstick 169
Ingredients 169
Basic Formulation 170
Manufacturing Procedure 170
Volatile Lipstick 170
Ingredients 170
Basic Formulation 171
Manufacturing Procedure 171
Nail Color 171
Makeup Formulary 172
Face Products 172
Loose Face Powder 18) 172
Pressed Powder Foundation 19) 173
Two-Way Powder Foundation (Wet and Dry) 173
Pressed Face Powder 174
Liquid Compact Foundation 174
Blusher Pressed) (20) 175
Eye Shadow Pressed) (21) 176
Eye Shadow Pressed) (22) 176
Solvent Mascara 23) 177
Emulsion-Resistant Mascara 23) 177
Waterproof Eyeliner 24) 178
Aqueous Eyeliner 25) 179
Makeup Pencil 26) 179
Classical Lipstick 27) 180
Solvent Lipstick 28) 180
Manicure Preparations 181
Cream Nail Enamel 29) 181
Pearlescent Nail Enamel 29) 181
Acrylic Nail Hardener 30) 182
References 182
INTRODUCTION
Decorative cosmetics are principally concerned with beautifying and decora-
tion, rather than functionality. No discussion of decorative products can be
complete without a full understanding of the importance of color, a prime
component of every decorative cosmetic. Conventional pigments create color
by absorption of certain wavelengths of incident light. The color perceived
corresponds to that of the wavelengths reflected. Formulation of decorative
cosmetics has been an exciting challenge for cosmetic chemists. Before formu-
lating any color cosmetic product, one must check the current regulations in
the country where the proposed product will be sold, to make sure all the
colors conform to those regulations. This chapter is a practical guide for the
formulator and covers a maximum of technical and regulatory issues in an
“easy to use” format.
