D_Tex is proposed as a hub around which it is possible to look at textiles in their different forms, in order to better understand, study, adapt and project them for the future. It is intended to build a flow of ideas and concepts so that participants can arrive at new ideas and concepts and work them in their own way, adapting them to their objectives and research. D_Tex is intended as a space for sharing and building knowledge around textile material in order to propose new understandings and explorations.

Present in all areas of knowledge, the textile material bets on renewed social readings and its evolutions to constantly reinvent itself and enable innovative cultural and aesthetic dimensions and unexpected applications to solve questions and promote new knowledge.

D_Tex proposes to promote discussion and knowledge in the different areas where textiles, with all their characteristics, can ensure an important contribution, combining material and immaterial knowledge, innovative and traditional techniques, technological and innovative materials and methods, but also new organization and service models, different concepts and views on teaching.

With the renewed idea of the intrinsic interdisciplinarity of design and sharing with different areas that support each other, the research and practice of textiles was proposed by the D_TEX Textile Design Conference 2019, held June 19-21, 2019 at the Lisbon School of Architecture of the University of Lisbon, Portugal under the theme "In Touch" where, as broadly understood as possible, different areas of textiles were regarded as needing to keep in touch with each other and end users in order to promote and share the best they can offer for the welfare of their users and consumers.

part |203 pages

Section 1 – Textile Identity and Material Culture

part |60 pages

Section 1.1 – Textile Art and Identity

chapter |4 pages

In Touch: Textiles and communication

ByM. Barnard

chapter |6 pages

Less is more

ByH. McAllister

chapter |7 pages

The relation of textile aesthetics with the development of genderless clothing

ByB. Reis, R. Miguel, M. Pereira, S. Azevedo, N.A. Jerónimo

chapter |7 pages

Aesthetics in fashion design and cultural studies

ByT. Beco Lobo

chapter |7 pages

Collective tissue, connective tissue

ByS.M. Pires

chapter |8 pages

Pompeii and the renewed thread. Antique textures and contemporary narratives

ByA. Cirafici, C.C. Fiorentino, P. Argenziano, A. Avella, L. Melillo

chapter |6 pages

Between nobility and magic: Power and costume in fantasy films

ByC.M. Figueiredo, R. Diogo

chapter |6 pages

The (im)perfect touch of fashion

ByM. Amaro

part |46 pages

Section 1.2 – Culture and Craft

chapter |8 pages

The woollen manufacture industry in the Azores islands (1850-1930)

ByP. Silveira e Sousa, M. Pacheco

chapter |4 pages

Textile heritage and active ageing: A sociocultural approach

ByM.G. Moreira

chapter |5 pages

The Slav influence on the Russian folk dress

ByL.P. Benetti, M.S. Barros de Held

part |32 pages

Section 1.3 – Textile Products

chapter |6 pages

Postpartum caesarean underwear design as a recovery in the healing process

ByD.P. Beduschi, C. Jordão, R. Puppim, L.M. Arruda, A.P. Souto

chapter |5 pages

Lightwall: A story in textile

ByA. Barth, M. de Carvalho, P. Gomes, A.P. Catarino

chapter |6 pages

Light design for bag use: A contribution to user comfort

ByP. Neves

chapter |5 pages

Textile air convector as a promoter of building environmental comfort

ByJ. Carmo Fialho, J. Afonso, M.J. Delgado, A.B. Diogo, A.J. Morais

part |65 pages

Section 1.4 – Marketing and Consumption

chapter |8 pages

Fashion design entrepreneurship: A qualitative approach

ByC.E. Fernandes, M. Pereira, M.J. Madeira

chapter |7 pages

Fashion retailing and consumer perception: An overview

ByA.P. Faria, J. Cunha, D. Vieira, P. Duarte, B. Providência

chapter |7 pages

Networks for fashion brands: A consumer perspective

ByE. Jesus, A. Mendes, M. Pereira

chapter |6 pages

The street store divinópolis: Helping homeless people

ByAntônio Guimarães Campos

chapter |7 pages

A new reality for brands: The 4.0 era focused on the human

ByM.J. Abreu, A.R. Fernandes

chapter |7 pages

Retail design: Contaminations between commerce and culture

ByC. Carreto, R. Carreto

chapter |6 pages

Consumers’ clothing disposal behaviour: Where should we go?

ByJ.P. Bernardes, F. Ferreira, A.D. Marques, M. Nogueira

part |181 pages

Section 2 – Textile Materials and Processes

part |47 pages

Section 2.1 – Textile Materials

chapter |5 pages

Fashion and tapestry – Dummy-loom as a method of shaping clothes

ByC. Morais, M. Velloso

chapter |7 pages

Knitted couture: Designing for creativity

ByG. Montagna, L. Santos

chapter |6 pages

Disrupting digital making for seamless knit design

ByR. Moore, A. Smith

chapter |5 pages

The use of craft techniques as a new creative mean in fashion in Brazil

ByC.E. Bertoluci, R.A. Sanches, A.Y.S. Duarte

chapter |5 pages

Active ageing sportswear

ByL. Piccinini, C. Carvalho, G. Montagna

chapter |5 pages

Design textile accessories: Connection between Portuguese felt and silk

ByA.M.P. Fernandes, C.M. Figueiredo

part |41 pages

Section 2.2 – Surface Design

chapter |7 pages

Braille textile stamping: An inclusive approach to Brazilian surface design

ByR. Bessa, A.M. Barbosa

chapter |6 pages

Crochet as a constructive tool for surface design

ByL. Crispim Duarte, M. dos Santos Menezes

chapter |7 pages

Vision and touch: Textile surfaces for unsighted individuals

ByL. Pina, J. Lucas, R. Miguel, P. Duarte, P. Martins

chapter |6 pages

Clothing as a support in tactual perception of visually impaired children

ByR.K.C. Fernandes, N.A. Pinheiro, L.J. Solino

chapter |7 pages

The behaviour of textile materials in thermal camouflage

ByC. Pimenta, R. Fangueiro, C. Morais

chapter |6 pages

Weaving with light threads

ByA. Ai Quintas, M. Saleiro Filho

part |91 pages

Section 2.3 – Sustainable Textiles

chapter |7 pages

New sustainable processes in the textile industry: Extraction of natural dyes

ByP.M.S. Silva, T.R. Fiaschitello, R.S. Queiroz, S.A. Costa, S.M. Costa

chapter |8 pages

Colour and ecological behaviour in textiles: A path to sustainable choices

ByC. Delgado, G. Forman, N. Almeida, S. Jamshidiam

chapter |6 pages

Reusing and recycling Solid Textile Residues (STR)

ByM.L. Nogueira

chapter |6 pages

The requalification possibility of laundry textile residues

ByR.G. Wanderley, A.F.S. Costa, J.S. Macêdo, C.B. Vasconcelos, M.H. Silva

chapter |6 pages

AO7 photoelectrocatalytic degradation at TiO2-NT/La0.6Ba0.4Fe0.6Ti0.4O3

ByA.S. Rodrigues, L. Ciríaco, M.J. Pacheco, A. Lopes

chapter |7 pages

Photocatalytic degradation of the AO7 under visible light with Bi-doped SrTiO3

ByM.J. Nunes, A. Lopes, M.J. Pacheco, L. Ciríaco, P.T. Fiadeiro

chapter |7 pages

Brazilian native flora and its potential for textile application

ByR.S. Queiroz, A.C.L. Broega, A.P. Souto

chapter |6 pages

Sustainable textile roofs in architecture and design

ByC. Alho, V. Matos

chapter |6 pages

Textile and fashion SMEs: The adoption of sustainable strategic models

ByF. Moreira da Silva

chapter |5 pages

From tectonic to textile polymers in the new architecture

ByN. Cortiços, T. Irina, A.B. Diogo, L. Reis Paulo, A.J. Morais

chapter |6 pages

Boosting green architecture by recycling waste glass into fiberglass

ByA.J. Morais, S.M. Shavaleeva

part |190 pages

Section 3 – Textile Innovation and Technology

part |83 pages

Section 3.1 – Technical and Smart Textiles

chapter |5 pages

Copaíba essential oil microencapsulation: Production and evaluation

ByL.M. Arruda, M. Teixeira, A.I. Ribeiro, A.P. Souto, C.A. Cionek

chapter |7 pages

Clothing for leisurewear with fashionable and functional wool fabrics

ByB. Reis, R. Miguel, L.S. Ribeiro, M. Pereira, J. Carvalho

chapter |5 pages

Development of biodegradable and antimalarial textile structures

ByC. Pinheiro, N. Belino, R. Paul

chapter |6 pages

Smart textiles for architecture: Embedded signs + information

ByA.C. d’Oliveira

chapter |6 pages

Smart & safe. Design for performative workwear (S2PWD)

ByM.A. Sbordone, L. Maffei, M. Masullo

chapter |5 pages

Otto: An interactive textile toy for autistic children

ByA.B. Alencar, J. Oliveira, L. Sampaio, A.P. Catarino

chapter |8 pages

Advanced textiles: Sharing disciplines, project fields, and practices

ByM. Carlomagno, R.A. Sanches, R. Veneziano

chapter |8 pages

The use of textiles in building rehabilitation: Brief bibliographic review

ByB. Moura Dias e Silva, G. Montagna, C. Morais, C. Carvalho

chapter |7 pages

Integrated graphene and PCM textiles for a better indoor environment

ByC. Varandas, L. Hiasat, J. Faria, C. Morais, C. Carvalho

part |45 pages

Section 3.2 – Digital and Virtual Textile Design

chapter |8 pages

Online footwear customization: Experts’ overview

ByN. Oliveira, J. Cunha, H. Carvalho

chapter |6 pages

Implementation of additive manufacturing technologies in apparel production

ByS. Marques, M. Santos Silva, C. Fernandes, R. Miguel

chapter |8 pages

Design process and visualization of multi-vector wovens

ByB. Hagan

chapter |5 pages

Creativity in the digital contemporaneity

ByL. Santos, G. Montagna, M.J. Pereira Neto

chapter |6 pages

The textile constructive envelope as a promoter of environmental comfort in the building

ByJ. Afonso, J.Carmo Fialho, A.B. Diogo, L.Reis Paulo, A.J. Morais

part |60 pages

Section 3.3 – Teaching, Research and Education

chapter |8 pages

Design for sustainable fashion: An S.PSS scenario for fashion

ByB. Azzi, C. Vezzoli, G.M. Conti

chapter |7 pages

Study of organizational contexts affecting the designer’s creativity

ByJ.A.B. Barata, R. Miguel, S. Azevedo

chapter |5 pages

Using technology to unify the areas of biomechanics and textile

ByL. Neiva, J. Neiva, L. Lorenzetti, D. Júnior

chapter |7 pages

A new approach on integrated textile and fashion design supply chains

ByM. Antonietta Sbordone

chapter |6 pages

Pattern block for clothing design of caregiver dependent elderly

ByA. Lima Caldas, M.Â. Fernandes Carvalho, H. Pinheiro Lopes

chapter |7 pages

Testimonials of the textile material culture through the Arachne myth

ByH. González Zymla, D. Prieto López

chapter |5 pages

Optimal sorbent combinations to eliminate excessive amounts of metals from textile production wastewater

ByA.J. Morais, Y.A. Tunakova, R.I. Faizullin, V.S. Valiev, G.N. Gabdrakhmanova

chapter |5 pages

Syntactic and semantic dimensions in design projects

ByC. Rijo, M.C. Sanches