ABSTRACT

The collaboration between the Textile Department of the University of Minho and the Brazilian Association of Studies and Research (ABEPEM) has led to an international platform for the exchange of research in the field of Fashion and Design: CIMODE. This platform is designed as a biennial congress that takes place in different European and Latin American countries with the co-organization of another university in each location.
The current edition was jointly organized by the University of Minho and the Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda (CSDMM) - Universidad Politécnica de Madrid.

CIMODE's mission is to explore fashion and design from a social, cultural, psychological and communication perspective, and to bring together different approaches and perceptions of practice, education and the culture of design and fashion. Through an interdisciplinary dialogue and intercultural perspective, CIMODE wants to generate and present new scenarios about the present and future of fashion and design. ‘DISEÑO AL REVÉS’ (‘BACKWARD DESIGN’) was the central theme of the 4th CIMODE (Madrid, Spain, 21-23 May 2018), which produced a highly topical and relevant number of academic publications presented in this book.

part 1|1 pages

Fashion and communication

chapter 1|9 pages

Performative runway in backstage liquidity

ByA. Rabàdan, I. Bentz

chapter 3|6 pages

The relevance of sketches in fashion design

ByA. Moreira da Silva

chapter 4|9 pages

Digital banners as shop windows: Narrative constructions of online fashion brands

ByD.V. Leal, D. Karam, M.C.P. Rodrigues

chapter 5|7 pages

The influence of soap operas in Brazilian fashion today

ByT.C. Viana, A.A. Silva, A. Adverse, R. Ribeiro, A. Horta

chapter 6|8 pages

The world and the fashion “al revés” in António Variações

ByMargarida Amaro

chapter 7|9 pages

Facets of youth culture: Discursive construction of Ahlma fashion brand

ByB. Machado, M. Scoz

chapter 9|8 pages

The importance of language on the social medias of a brand

ByM. Hammes de Carvalho, F.A. Hammes de Carvalho

chapter 11|7 pages

Analysis of attributes in unisex and genderless clothing

ByB.M. Reis, R. Miguel, N.A. Jerónimo, M. Pereira, S. Azevedo

chapter 12|8 pages

Embroidery: The narrative of the ribbon of the presentation of Arthur Bispo do Rosário—confluences with contemporary visual artists

ByL.U. Dantas, U.S.T. Barbosa, G.M.J. Sales, H.A. Dieb, R.R. Marques

chapter 13|7 pages

Eye tracking in fashion: An overview

ByA.P. Faria, B. Providência, J. Cunha

part 2|1 pages

Fashion, identities and cultures

chapter 15|8 pages

A geography of fashion, Medellín: 1900–1950

ByW. Cruz Bermeo

chapter 16|8 pages

The Prêt-à-porter phenomenon and the boutiques in the dowtown area of Santiago, Chile

ByJ. Vidal Miranda, P. Álvarez Caselli

chapter 18|8 pages

Reframing old age through design: An approach to promote empowerment

ByI. Rojas, B. Pino

chapter 21|8 pages

The pleasurable dressing of Loewe: From the store of Martínez-Feduchi to the showroom of Carvajal

ByA. Cano Redondo, A. Martínez-Medina

chapter 23|8 pages

Globalized brazilianness on the forming way of “Elementais”

ByG.R.R. Vieira

chapter 27|7 pages

Fashion design and craftwork: Subjectivation policies in the contemporary scenario

ByA.R.V. Peroba, C. Mesquita

chapter 28|8 pages

Chinese fashion, occidental fashion: A semiotic translation

ByYingqiao Pan

chapter 29|9 pages

The fashion design as a contribution to the preservation of Nazaré culture and costumes: 7 project

BySueli Moreira, Madalena Pereira, Alexandra Cruchinho, José M. Lucas, Rui Miguel

chapter 30|5 pages

DIY and the slow fashion movement: Sew for yourself

ByL. Barrocas, G. Bezerra, M.A.V. Rocha

chapter 32|8 pages

The aesthetics in fashion design and cultural studies

ByT. Lobo

chapter 33|8 pages

The physiological aspects of senescence: Comfort and relationship with the clothing

ByM.D. Almeida, A.C. Broega, M. Moura

chapter 35|8 pages

Castelo Branco embroidery applied to clothing

ByA. Cruchinho, A.S. Marcelo, P. Peres, A. Moura

chapter 36|7 pages

Female jeans: The aesthetic of Brazilian “popular fashion”

ByI. Braga, M.J. Abreu, M.M. Oliveira

chapter 38|10 pages

The Minho traditional costume as cultural heritage in fashion design

ByS. Castro, J. Cunha, C. Morais

chapter 39|8 pages

The casualisation and homogeneity of contemporary fashion

ByF. Spry

part 3|1 pages

Product design

chapter 40|8 pages

Practices of design: Understanding processes

ByA. Rabàdan

chapter 42|7 pages

Clothing as an architectural project

ByB. Alcoceba

chapter 43|7 pages

Marking embroidery in colors: The creative fashion process in AMAC, in São João dos Patos – MA

ByM.S. Lima, R.G. Noronha, L.R. da Silva

chapter 44|7 pages

Miramar embroiderers, design and territory

ByF.P. Vallejos

chapter 45|8 pages

Strategic approach to implement sustainability in the joineries of the city of Uberlândia, Brazil

ByF. Moreira da Silva, J. Cardoso Braga

chapter 46|8 pages

A proposed procedure to develop clothing for pregnant women

ByD.A.N. Mentone, R.H. Osava, S.H.A. Gomes, R.A. Sanches, A.Y.S. Duarte

chapter 47|8 pages

Functional fashion focused on the needs of people with disabilities

ByL.N. Souza, S.H.A. Gomes, C.R.G. Vicentini, R.A. Sanches, A.Y.S. Duarte

chapter 48|9 pages

Designing for emotions: Evaluation of the drooler, a toy for preschoolers

ByB. Providência, R. Brandão, P.B. Albuquerque

chapter 49|8 pages

Creativity and industrial fashion design—reviews, analyses and connexions

ByJ.A.B. Barata & R. Miguel, S. Azevedo

chapter 50|7 pages

Procedures and guidelines for the instruction and execution of pattern making: An analysis

ByP.A.A. Spaine, D.M. Brito, L.M. Pereira, N. Pinheiro, R.R. Andrade

chapter 51|5 pages

Anthropometry and clothing for overweight and obese children: A literature review

ByR. Campos, M.A. Carvalho

chapter 52|8 pages

The materialization of fashion products: An experience of the textile behavior

ByP.M. Souza, M.M. Otani, P.P. Silva, I.C. Italiano

chapter 53|6 pages

Design and redesign

ByG. Montagna, M.J. Delgado

part 4|1 pages

Marketing and consumption

chapter 54|9 pages

Psychographic segmentation of female fashion consumers in Portugal

ByB. Moreira, A. Azevedo

chapter 55|7 pages

Taxhion. Model taxonomy clothing and accessories e-commerce

ByB. Alcoceba, M. García-Ergüín, R. García, D. de las Heras, M. Adsuara

chapter 56|7 pages

Cultural values of minimalist fashion

ByA.P. de Miranda, I. Domingues, N. Souza

chapter 57|6 pages

Emerging platforms for fashion design entrepreneurs: An assessment

ByC.E. Fernandes, L. Ribeiro, M.S. Silva, M. Pereira, M.J. Madeira

chapter 59|8 pages

The influence of social network sites on digital branding

ByM. Barreto, L. Ribeiro

part 5|1 pages

Teaching and education

chapter 60|8 pages

Teaching design in real contexts to preserve local identity and memory

ByA.H. Grácio, C. Rijo

chapter 61|9 pages

Immersive business simulation in footwear design education: A bridge for reality

ByA.M. Terroso, A. Moreno, N. Amorim, H. Palmares, J. Sampaio

chapter 63|6 pages

A case study of didactic laboratory approach in fashion design education

ByX. Lin, A. Dell’Acqua

chapter 65|7 pages

Bê a Bá of sewing: Our online friend

ByL.C. de M. Tavares, J.P.C. de Brito

chapter 66|5 pages

Professional education and the formation of garments factory in Brazil

ByV. Feldman, M.S.B. de Held

chapter 67|8 pages

Complex geometry and patterns: Colonizing the surrounding space through the costume

ByM.J. Climent Mondéjar, M.P. Moreno Moreno, A. Cano Redondo

chapter 69|7 pages

Pattern making books: An analysis of documentary research

ByP.A.A. Spaine, D.M. Brito, L.M. Pereira, N. Pinheiro, R.R. Andrade

chapter 71|7 pages

Active applied methodologies on fashion design teaching: Possibilities and challenges

ByL.E.F.S. Rebello, G.D. Marques, M. Mansur

part 6|1 pages

Sustainability in fashion and design

chapter 72|8 pages

Fashion that cares for the future

ByE. Araujo, I. Castro, I. Pinto, I. Araujo

chapter 73|6 pages

Design, tradition and culture—past and future united to develop depressed regions

ByI. Oliveira, M.G. Guedes

chapter 74|7 pages

Circular economy: An approach for the fashion industry

ByE. Pinheiro, S.M.B.D. Barcelos, A.C. de Francisco

chapter 76|7 pages

Sustainable fashion. Strategies for sustainability and new forms of value creation in fashion and textile

ByM.A. Sbordone, L. Di Lucchio, R.A. Sanches

chapter 77|6 pages

Generation Y’s sustainability attitude-behaviour gap

ByJ.P. Bernardes, F. Ferreira, A.D. Marques, M. Nogueira

chapter 78|6 pages

Collaborative economy: Case study of new business models

ByS.R. Fernandes, J.M. Lucas, M.J. Madeira, A.I.C. Barreiros, I.D. Honório

chapter 79|8 pages

Imbrications and distances between the creative economy and the sustainability of small fashion brands

ByU.S.T. Barbosa, H.A. Dieb, G.M.J. Sales, L.U. Dantas, A.N. Targino

chapter 80|8 pages

New sustainable fashion business models: “the coworking” case study

ByL.F. Barcellos, A.C. Broega

chapter 83|4 pages

Silk: Protocols for the verification of socioeconomic impacts in the production of cocoons

ByS.M.B.D. Barcelos, M.G. Guedes, E. Pinheiro, A.C. de Francisco

chapter 84|7 pages

A perspective towards a circular fashion design system

ByBeatrice Melo, Ana Cristina Broega, Ana Cristina Broega

chapter 85|8 pages

Fashion and sustainability’s valences: Exposing gaps

ByR. Puppim, C. Jordão, L.M. Arruda, D.P. Beduschi, A.C. Broega

chapter 86|8 pages

Design and social innovation: Methodological principles for community qualification

ByJ. Oenning, J.B. Garcia, J. Cunha